Visiting Whang-Od

Whang-Od: A Journey into the Tattooing Traditions of the Philippines

Whang-Od is a legendary tattoo artist who has gained international recognition for her unique craft and its profound cultural significance.

Her tattoos are a testament to an ancient tradition that has existed for over 1,000 years.

A journey to her village, Buscalan in Kalinga Province, is an experience that combines culture, adventure, and history.

For us, the journey began early in the morning at around 5 a.m. from San Fernando, La Union, and ended a day later when we returned – with a very special souvenir: Whang-Od’s signature tattoo.

The Journey to Whang-Od

Setting out in the early morning allowed us to enjoy the sunrise as we headed north toward Kalinga.

The long drive took us through breathtaking mountain landscapes, small villages, and winding roads before arriving at the starting point of our hike to Buscalan.

The hike itself, which leads up steep trails and through lush nature, is a challenge but also an essential part of the authentic experience that prepares you to meet the tradition face-to-face.

Whang-Od and Her Legacy

Whang-Od, also known as "Maria Oggay," was born in 1917 and is the last of the traditional mambabatok – tattoo artists who use a technique where ink is tapped into the skin with a bamboo stick.

Although she no longer tattoos, her legacy lives on through the younger generations in the village, including her niece, Apo Whang-Od, and other local artists.

These young tattoo artists proudly continue the tradition taught to them by Whang-Od.

A Day in Buscalan

Upon arriving in Buscalan, you immediately feel the tranquility of the small village surrounded by mountains and mist.

The locals extend a warm welcome, and visitors have the opportunity to get a tattoo from the new mambabatok artists, who work with the same traditional techniques that Whang-Od made famous.

For me, it was a unique experience to receive Whang-Od’s iconic signature tattoo – three dots that symbolize Whang-Od herself and her legacy. While the tattoo is small in size, it carries profound meaning. The three dots represent the connection between the past, present, and future and serve as a tribute to the survival of the mambabatok tradition. The process was simple, but the ritual surrounding it made the experience both personal and spiritual.

After spending time with the villagers and experiencing their hospitality, we began our hike back down the mountain trails. The descent was just as awe-inspiring as the climb and gave us time to reflect on the cultural richness we had witnessed.